Writing down your professional goals is something everyone should focus on. Similarly one should also plan how to achieve those goals.
I, based on my skills have always driven towards Pattern making and consider myself as a budding pattern maker. Since day one I was focused on learning more and more about this field and how to draft patterns.
Here’s a basic introduction about what are patterns and who is a pattern maker.
Patterns are templates from which pieces of the garments are traced onto the fabric before cutting it out, usually made on papers. Through pattern making you get a blueprint of a garment before the fabric is being cut. pattern making is the most hardworking job. A pattern maker is the most requested professional figure in the fashion industry. A pattern maker transforms creative ideas into reality.
To achieve these goals one needs to work hard and needs a lot of experience. People like me who go to a fashion school are taught everything, but someone who doesn’t know where to begin with should always start with buying books. I personally prefer studying with Winifred Aldrich. This book teaches you pattern making in the easiest way possible.
Pattern making is such an amazing and fun subject if done the right way. The future of fashion is pattern makers. Without pattern makers this field is incomplete. There is so much handwork involved which pays off when you see the final outcomes on the runway. As a pattern maker you should have good knowledge about fabrics, for gaining that i personally used to go to the local market instead of getting things online. This helped me in increasing my knowledge in many different ways for example: I learned to deal with whole- sellers/sellers.
Now I would like to share what I have learned and done to achieve my goals so far:
How to take body measurements
How to make drafts and cut fabrics
How to shop the right fabric
Garment construction
In my free time after my college, I have worked at my college boutique under the guidance of Prof. Leela Taparia to gain some extra knowledge and experience. While working at the college boutique I learned a lot about drafting patterns of different sizes and fits. I also learned about the different techniques used for cutting the fabrics. But, the most important thing which I learned about was how to create garments without waste. Zero waste and sustainability is the future of fashion, and it is very important for us to create without harming the environment.
In college boutique with Prof. Leela Taparia
It was surely very difficult to manage working there and completing my assignments at the same time. But when you are seriously focused towards your dream nothing is unachievable.
I have also written blogs on dart manipulation, do have a read
On the first day of our class we were given a task of writing our professional goals. We all make our short term and long term career plans, some write it down and some keep it their mind. In my case, I wrote it down. The first thing which i wrote was: To make my own blog page by the end of this year. So, here I am working on my goals
In this blog I will share how Puma made my day.
In March I posted a picture on my Instagram feed wearing puma shoes, and ofcourse I tagged puma.
Captured by- Rahul Thakkar
Little did I knew that puma will actually notice me one day and share that picture. It happened few days back, i just received a notification “Puma official mentioned you in their story” and I was like okay some fake promotional account might have mentioned, but the minute i opened that notification I couldn’t believe what just happened, It was real!!
Shared By PUMA!!
It was such a happy day of my life and it also motivated me a lot. My style, my passion for fashion was recognised at such a big level, I was recognised as an social media influencer and the title of “sweatpants style” was given to my styling. The first thing which came to my mind was “Your are doing good work, you are being recognised”, and that made me so happy.
To everyone who is working everyday and is creating content, please don’t loose hope, you will be recognised one day and all of this handwork will pay off. Chase your dreams and don’t let anything come in between.
Just remember, ” You don’t just wake up and become the butterfly, Growth is a process”
[Guided by – Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]
At the beginning of the 20thcentury, the art world was going through a period of renewal. Part of this was brought by Fauvism, which was the first major avant-garde movement in Europe.
Fauvism developed in France to become the first new artistic style of 20th century. Fauvism paintings first formally exhibited in Paris in 1905 at Salon d’Automne. The contrast to traditional art was so striking it led critics to describe the artists as “Les Fauves” or “wild beast” and thus the name of this movement was born.
The best known Fauvist artists include Henri Matisse, Andre Derain and Maurice Vlaminck who pioneered this artistic movement. Fauvism favors the use of bold, unrealistic colors. Color used , free of traditional purpose for the sole purpose of painting. However, Fauvism lasted till 1910, but it had an significant impact on the other art movements, in relation to the use of abstraction and color.
Artists of fauvism were the true nature-lover which they expressed through their art. Fauvism paintings focus on individual expression. It was involved with getting in touch with an emotional reality. Instead of painting the real world, Fauvists painted their imaginary world, they painted freedom.
The Fauves were among the first artists to place a strong focus on abstraction and simplified forms. They seemed to have no interest in carefully using depth and form on the canvas like the artists who came before. Fauvists often used powerful, strong , bright but above all pure colors, applied thickly on the canvas, sometimes straight from the tube.
Characterised by small brush strokes of unblended colors, Derain used short brush strokes while Vlaminck used longer swirling strokes. Their developments in abstraction and simplified form paved the way for the following artmovements like Cubism and Expressionism.
For the Fauvists, color prevails over the realistic depiction. Matisse used this rule of Fauvism as a fundamental rule throughout his work. The choice of color could be completely arbitrary or something that the artist sees in his mind. For example, trees can be red or blue and people can be green. Such approach was highly unusual for the period. Nature was the favorite subject for Fauvists to paint. Matisse and Derain depicted the places of South France and Vlaminck was interested in working in the North of France.
This is the artwork of Matisse called as Woman with a Hat. Colors used by Matisse in this painting are unnatural, the strokes are bold and the forms have been simplified. This painting was unveiled at the first Salon in 190
This work of Matisse clearly indicates the artist’s stylistic influence. This artwork reflects the influence of Pointillism, a style which is characterized by the use of dots of color, distort the form. The color of the painting like orange, yellow, green and other color maintain their own discrete places on the picture plane. These colors are almost overpowering its vibrant impact.
This is the artwork of Vlaminck, known as The River Seine at Chatou. Vlaminck used short strokes of color, directly from the tube without mixing or preparing. He painted the water using a broken color technique. Bright colors and wavy lines could pull the attention on the eyes.
Fauvism inspired fashion
This art movement was a short lived art movement but it had its impact on fashion as well. This was the 1st artistic movement of 20th century, which has inspired the avant- garde of 21st century. Fashion and art have always had a close relation, fashion influenced by Fauvism could create a rebellious look. Many designers of today had used the color and pure nature of fauvism to create a strong and inspiring collections, which had great impact on the world of fashion. Here are some of the Fauvism inspired looks
Hi everyone, this blog is about dart manipulation into French dart. Before moving forward let’s discuss the importance of dart manipulation.
Dart manipulation is an extremely valuable skill. Darts manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting. The shape and fit of garments depends on darts and while they are needed to help the garment to stay in shape, they can also be used as a design element.
Now, talking about French dart, it is the diagonal dart that combines bust dart and front waist dart. Basically, French dart is the dart that reaches from the side seam at the waist of a bodice block towards the bust point.
Steps to manipulate the bust dart to french dart:
1.Trace round front bodice block.
Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich
2.Draw a line from the side seam at the waist to the bust point.
Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich
3.Fold the bust dart and the waist dart, then close them with the help of glue.
4.From A to B slash along this line.
Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred AldrichImage Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich
5.Stick a paper underneath the bodice block.
6.Fold the slashed dart towards the centre front.
7.True the waist line with a french curve.
Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich
In this way, the dart is manipulated to make the French dart
Image Source: Pattern Making for Fashion Design By-Helen Joseph Armstrong
This is how French dart will look after sewing on the fabric.
I think French dart is so flattering than other standard side darts and add visual interest. Construction of French dart is slightly different than other darts as this dart adds drama and creates interest . It is an essential dart to shape and fit the garment to the body curves better.
I hope this blog was a helpful for dart manipulation in pattern making.
For more dart manipulation ideas do follow, comment and like.
Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.
Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear; they are manipulated into a different position.
SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.
Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
Follow the following steps :
1 . Trace the front bodice block.
Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
2. Mark point ‘A’ at the centre of the side seam and mark the apex point as ‘B’. Join A & B with a straight line.
Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue, and then slash from point ‘A’ to ‘B’.
Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
NOTE:
All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment.
All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.
4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the side seam.
This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the side seam look on a ready garment.
Image Source: Pattern Making For Fashion Design By – Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Hope this blog was a great learning experience.
So, for more such blogs follow us and stay connected.
Here is the second part of dart manipulation in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Armhole.
In case you have missed the first dart manipulation blog, in which the transferring of bust dart to centre shoulder is shown then click on the link below to have a read-
Dart manipulation is the most important technique when it comes to pattern- drafting. The fit and shape of the garment depends on the darts. Dart manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D shape.
Primarily, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you wish to have them. Darts don’t disappear; they are just manipulated into different positions.
Basically there are basic 7 locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless. You can move them to any location on the sloper.
Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
THE ARMHOLE DART
Follow the following steps for the manipulation of the bust dart into the armhole:
1 . Trace the front bodice block.
Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
2. Go 1 cm down from the front pitch point and mark point “A “, then draw the line from point “A” to apex point of the bust dart.
Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue. Then slash from point “A” to the end of the bust dart.
Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
PLEASE NOTE:
All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment.
All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.
4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the Armhole.
This is how the manipulation of the bust dart into the armhole will look on a ready garment.
Image Source: Pattern Making for Fashion Design By- Helen Joseph- Armstrong
Hope this blog was a good learning experience.
So for more such blogs follow, like, share and comment….!!!
Art Nouveau is an ornamental style of art which took place around 1890 till 1910 in parts of Europe and United States. It wouldn’t be incorrect to say that this movement was a rebel to the 19th century art and design and usually dominated the amalgamated version of those style. The term “Art Nouveau” originated from the description of work of an artist group Les Vingt and S. Bing, in Paris who named his gallery L’Art Nouveau. In fact, the style of art nouveau gained its popularity in different names at different places, like, Jugendstil in Germany, Stille Floreale in Italy, etc.
During the late 18th century and early 19th century, the world witnessed the union of east and west. It was during this time when famous Japanese woodblock prints like flowing lines, Spiral lines, Twirls inspired the western artists so much that it resulted in the outbreak of ART NOUVEAU MOVEMENT. There are possibilities every now and then that everyone has admired art nouveau style without even knowing it. In French the word means “new art”, which perfectly describes the movement in just two words. Art nouveau was hugely criticised before gaining much acceptance during its time period. It was insulted by German critics to the extent of calling it “tapeworm style”.
There is a common notion circulated amongst artists that art nouveau was inspired by patterns, swirling flowing lines and florals found in the background of the Vincent van Gogh’s artworks, whereas, some believed that it took its root from William Morris’s and his art and craft movement, which is why it is difficult to recognise the first work of art of this movement.
This movement was truly considered a “modern” movement. Even though the inspiration was taken from past but the art portrayed was contrary and realistic. It created such a huge impact that it influenced the masses in every field including fashion, architecture, interior and applied arts. It was the time when modernity was speeding up at an unmatchable pace. It was the new age of steamships, airplanes, telecommunications, electricity, moving films, mass industry, urbanisation, etc., some of which was a result of industrial revolution. It was a time where several inventions where happening simultaneously, the speed of change was unacceptable frightening for some. It was a very brief movement and was soon taken over by Art Deco.
STYLE OF ART NOUVEAU
The elements of design played a very important role in the style of art nouveau movement. Art nouveau was driven towards the natural style art and architecture. Art nouveau was not restricted to paintings it also brought modernisation in everything from interior & architecture to even graphics and other forms of visual art. The style of art nouveau was characterised by asymmetrical, and rising line and falling patterns in the form of lines, which took its shape in the form of flowers, buds and different motifs inspired by nature. The use of long organic lines with moderate and dark colours stood out to be its signature.
The main object in every art work was the portrayal of new empowered modern women of femininity as her virtue. The colour palette consisted of muted colours including, olive green, carnation pink, muted yellow, and periwinkle blue. Simplicity, soft colours and detailed two-dimensional art became the style of Art Nouveau.
POPULARITY OF ART NOUVEAU IN FASHION
Art nouveau was a decorative style which took its inspiration from nature all around. It soon became a way of promoting designs for the designers. As we moved from the Edwardian era to the “new art” movement where everything was changing, fashion was changing too. There was no glimpse of tight corsets and bodices, instead loose-fitting flowing gowns were making its mark. Designers and artists used to collaborate to promote each other. If a poster was made, the model would definitely be seen in a designer dress and Alphones Mucha was the most famous artist of that time who took commercialism to another level.
The famous artists belonging to this art movement made a huge contribution with their individual styles. Alphones Mucha, Gustav Klimpt, Aubrey Beardsley, are some of the famous names.
ALPHONES MUCHA
Alphones Mucha was an icon involved in paintings, theatre, furniture, jewellery and he used to do a lot of commercial work in the form of posters and advertisements. He loved the portrayal of the new image of a women which represented changing times representing women femininity and empowerment at the same time. one of his famous poster “GISMONDA” is shown below:
Klimpt was first recognised before art nouveau, with his style of decorative painting of historical figures and scenes. He was recognised as an art nouveau artist in 1897 when he formed a group to bring modern European art to Austria. His most recognizable work is “The Kiss” which was one such art piece of his which included a man. Klimpt also focused on mostly portraying women in his artworks.
Aubrey Beardsley was a favourite illustrator of this time. He was famous for his impressive impact on art of illustration. His most famous yet controversial illustration was “The Dancers Reward (Salome)”
Although art nouveau lasted for 20 years, it left its unbeatable mark so much so that art nouveau has stood the test of times and never fails to find its relevance even today.
Many designers take their inspiration from art nouveau and portray beautiful floral organic prints on the runway especially Alexander MC queen. A lot of inspiration has been taken in the sense of silhouette from Paul Poiret. Designer Anna Sui is always seen taking inspiration from the movement especially her Spring 2010 collection and Spring 2015 collections in which she beautifully portrayed key elements and style of this movement. It has encouraged designers to look around the nature and find inspiration, instead of searching it in books.
So if you are looking for some inspiration, look around and observe the nature around you, it will surely help you reach the best version of your creative mind.
What is life without florals anyway? Thanks to Mucha for leaving behind so much inspiration.
Until then don’t forget to like, share, comment, and follow!!!
Ancient Egyptians loved fashionable clothing and accessories. Clothing style was simple yet elegant. Egypt has been and remains, one of the most powerful reservoirs of inspiration, touching so many aspects of fashion world. Egyptian clothing was filled with a variety of different colours, decorated with precious gems and jewels. The fashions of the ancient Egyptians were made for not only beauty but also comfort. Egyptian fashion was constructed to keep cool while staying in hot desert. Egyptians made a major contributions to fashion in this light by giving us the fabulous Linen.
Women costumes:
Egyptian women wore a transparent, close-fitting sheath made from very fine linen. Over this was worn the kalasiris, which is a semi-transparent robe and has knots on the chest enhanced with the traditional broad jewel-encrusted collar.
Heavy eye makeup was used . The face was painted with a white lead-based cream. The lips, cheeks were tinted orange-red, the eyes outlined with black kohl. Eyebrows were curved down around the eye.
The basic garment for men was the shenti, a loincloth wrapped around the hips and fastened with the belt. Several transparent skirts were worn over the shenti which were knee-length or short and were stiffened into a triangular shape similar to a pyramid.
Men were clean-shaven. Hair was worn short to accommodate the real hair or woolen wigs worn by all well dressed Egyptians. Wigs were dyed black, blue, red.
INFLUENCE ON FASHION
It is an universal fact that designers of the modern day get their inspiration from the past. Egyptian fashion is an apt example of the same. A lot of gold and the royal symbols are used as an inspiration. Egyptian fashion is all about simplicity and comfort. In today’s world Egyptian symbols and patterns (especially the symbol of “eye of horus”) are taken as inspiration by many leading and upcoming designers which they use to create contemporary fashion.
One of the important motif of Egyptian clothing was the flower Lotus which signified the symbol of sun and creation. It also includes “The Ankh” which signifies the eternal life and “Wadget” which represents healing, protection, good health and royalty.
Maxi dress embellished with ancient Egyptian royal symbols:
This look is created by taking inspiration from Egyptian men, Pharaho (rulers) who usually wore a triangular shape outfit with artificial beard made of metal which signifies their connection with God.
Egyptian clothing was one such clothing which was very simple yet beautiful. Each of their motif had a meaning behind it and was important for them. They also enhanced their simple clothing with heavy jewellery and makeup which made them look different from the others. They used the most simplest fabric, that is Linen.
Greek civilisation started from 700 BC and lasted till 53 BC. It was mainly based on necessity, function, materials and protection. Clothes were quite simple in the form of drape, fluid, free flowing and loose-fitting. during ancient Greek civilisation clothes that were worn were handwoven and were influenced by the clothing of ancient Egyptians. In other words, the piece of clothing was ancient version of modern day cloaks and wrap around, fluid draped and nudity depending on the place and occasion.
For the poorer and lower classes, garments were plain coloured, white or reddish-brown. The upper classes used dyes and decorated clothing with simple borders or all-over patterns and embroidered in multiple colours. Social hierarchy used to establish by easily recognisable form for both men and women in an outfit called Chiton.
Chiton was draped cloth, fastened on the shoulders with pins and brooches known as Fibulae. It was left open at the side and wrapped around the body. The wearing of the Chiton developed into sophisticated forms of folding, twisting and wrapping. Belts and girdles were worn on the waist or hips. Accessories included hats, walking stick, gloves and leather sandals.
The clothes worn by women in Ancient Greece was a long tunic called the Peplos. It was a long piece of cloth that was fastened at about the waist with a belt. Peplos was worn over chiton. It often featured brightly coloured woven patterns of wavy lines, oval shapes, animal and scenes. At first wool was a favoured fabric but this later changed to lighter textiles such as linen, occasionally silk, cotton and flax fibre known as Byssus.
The outermost garment worn by both men and women was the Himation. Himation was another rectangular fabric initially worn as a cloak around the shoulder, it later developed into an elaborately draped garment often worn over the head.
Himition is a floor length garment which is worn behind the back and draped around the shoulder in a similar way a chiton is worn. They usually used to sew lead weights at the end of their garment, which helped them sway their body movements.
Ancient Greek culture has influenced modern designers over and over again. Modern interpretation of Greek costumes has an amazing and graceful look. Sheer, light and draping Greek inspired elements which brings together the power of femininity and elegance.
A cylindrical piece of cloth can be made into a dress and a top with a morphing neckline. A little black dress can be worn forward, or backward with caped sleeves. Cone shaped cloth can be converted into a shirt and skirt which has no front or back and can we worn both ways. Designer’s nowadays captures Ancient Greek beauty with elegant draped shapes to revive classically fluid forms in their designs.
With a flurry of ruffles, pleats, and drapes, Greek clothing displays a spectacular look in fashion shows. The most interesting aspect of Grecian clothing is that it can be twisted, tied, and wrapped to create different outcomes and looks.
The classic chiton is extremely popular among designers as well as celebrities who have given it new life in today’s fashion. One shoulder gown is popularly increasing trend.
Greek clothing styles were very elaborated and way ahead of their time. Modern fashion designers have acquired a lot of inspiration from Ancient Greeks. They are loved for its beauty and simplicity.
I hope this blog was an informative read. For more such insightful blogs, keep reading and supporting.
Byzantium took place in the 5th Century B.C. (315) when the Emperor Constantine transferred the capital from Rome to Byzantium, and lasted till the 12th Century (1453).
“Clothes make the man or woman; clothes make the person. It is not a modern saying, but instead an ancient concept”
The rise of Byzantium saw a bloom in fashion in the terms of colour, ornamentation, accessories and the rise of Christianity. Byzantium took its roots from the Romans and the Greeks. The Byzantium empire was known for its fashion and culture worldwide. The wealthy and luxurious empire was reflected through its colourful and heavily beaded clothing. It was inspired by the Orient and Middle East with whom they had trade relation. Traders brought luxurious fabric in the city from all these regions, and rich Byzantines instantly adapted the colours, patterns, and fabrics from the east in their costume traditions.
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
Byzantium dresses were very conservative because of the influence of Christianity. The shape of the body should be covered by clothing, showing off skin was no longer acceptable and was considered a sin. At the beginning of the Byzantium Empire, the Roman “TOGA” was still worn for formal or official occasions. During Justinian times dresses were changed into a “TUNICA” or long Chiton, which were unisex in nature. The upper class also wore a “Dalmatica” over their tunica. Dalmatica is a long, loose sleeved robe with close fitted bodice with embellishment on it and a fuller skirt which was worn either belted or without the belt above the waist.
Tunics were worn as undergarments by every class differentiated on the basis of fabric used. The open sandal was replaced by a leather shoe. Women had long hair worn in braids, rolls, frizzed or wrapped in turban.
MEN’S CLOTHING
Men also wore “Toga” and “Tunica”. Later, men wore shorter tunics to have some freedom of movement along with Trousers known as “bracae” or hose covered the legs, but not by wealthy hierarchy because this clothing was associated with barbarians. Feet was sometimes tied with leg bandages. The open sandal was now replaced with a leather or fabric shoe, which further followed the shape of the foot and was usually embroidered or painted. After 6th century the cloak were worn symmetrically.
The colour palette was uni-sexual which consisted of mostly all colours but especially purple which was the colour of royalty used with gold embroidery and embellishments.
SILK- THE RICHEST FABRIC
Byzantines loved colour and pattern especially silk was their favourite material which was used very frequently. The Byzantines wove their silk into a strong fabric known as “Samite” which had gold thread woven into the material depending upon the class. Silk was a form of luxury and byzantines loved luxury. Heavy materials like silks and velvet’s were worn by the upper class.
The fashion world has fastened onto the lavish and glamorous world of byzantium inspired art dresses . A lot of inspiration has been taken from Christianity. It has mostly influenced the couture fashion because byzantium was all about luxury and so is couture.
Byzantium had such a huge impact that if a persons knows even a little bit about this empire, they will identify with the byzantine civilisation. All the gold and glitter put aesthetically, is a blessing that we have received from the Byzantium empire. Christian symbols like the cross, domes of churches and the embellishment of luxurious stones on gold are the key elements of Byzantium.
Byzantium has inspired many luxury designers, especially Dolce & Gabbana who presented a Fall/Winter 2013 collection in Milan which was ultra rich in embellishments, full of regality and intricately crafted details. History has always inspired the designers and byzantium has left the prominent mark in luxury and richness behind to inspire many.
Byzantium has become a huge inspiration for accessories. The usage of gold, embellishment with different stone, imprinting the paintings of Jesus and all the precious stone crusted on gold crowns are inspired by Byzantium.
“Since we cannot change reality, let us change the eyes which see reality”- Nikos Kazantzakis
Byzantium was all about living larger than life in the lap of luxurious life. The clothing sure was conservative, but they had best fabric choices enhanced with embroideries and embellishments.
Now go add some GOLD AND EMBELLISHMENT in your wardrobe..!!
Until then don’t forget to like, share, comment, and follow!!!
Captured by- Rahul Thakkar
The Tales Of Quarantine 