THE MAGIC OF DARTS

By-Namrata Jaiswal

[Guided By- Ms Leela Taparia & Ms Monika Malik]

Hello everyone, I hope you all are doing well!!

I am a Fashion Design student and love Pattern-Making as a subject.

In this blog, I will be sharing the Basics of dart manipulation, as it is an important part in every design practically.

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to Pattern- Drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Dart manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3-D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear, they are manipulated into a different position. So, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart but the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the slopers.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

THE CENTER SHOULDER DART

So, we will begin with THE CENTER SHOULDER DART

Follow the steps mentioned below:

  1. Trace round front bodice block.
Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

2. Draw line from center shoulder to the apex point of the bust dart.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

3. Then fold the bust dart with the help of glue, and slash from mid shoulder to the end of the bust dart.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
  • NOTE:
    •  All vertical darts fold towards the center front or center back of the garment. 
    • All horizontal darts fold towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart is manipulated into center shoulder dart. This is how a manipulated center shoulder dart will look on a ready garment.

Image Source:Pattern Making For Fashion Design By – Helen Joseph-Armstrong

I hope you were able to learn the example of dart manipulation and implement center shoulder dart on your garments. In the next blog, I will be sharing how the bust dart can be transferred into the armhole.

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