THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written by- Nikita Rajani

[Guided by Ms. Leela Taparia and Ms. Monika Malik]

This is the seventh part of the dart manipulation series in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Waist dart.

In case you missed the  previous dart manipulation blogs, then click on the link given below to have a read-

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear, they are manipulated into a different position.

SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possiblities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

THE WAIST DART

Follow the following steps:

  1. Trace front bodice block.

Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

2. Mark point A to the center of waist dart and apex point as B. Join A to B with straight line.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue. Slash from point from A to B.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

NOTE:

  • All vertical darts fold towards the center front or center back of the garment. 
  • All horizontal darts fold towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stitch a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the Waist.

This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the waist look on a ready garment.

Hope this blog was a great learning experience.

For more such blogs do follow, like, comment and share.

THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written By- Namrata Jaiswal

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Monika Malik]

This is the sixth part of the dart manipulation series in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Centre Front.

In case you missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, then click on the links below to have a read:

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear; they are manipulated into a different position.

SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is image-17.png
Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

Follow the following steps :

1 . Trace the front bodice block.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is image-19.png
Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

2. Go down 2.5 cm from the Armhole Depth Line (ADL) on the centre front line and mark it point ‘A’. Mark the apex point as point ‘B’. Join point A-B with a straight line.

Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue, and then slash from point ‘A’ to ‘B’.

Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

NOTE:

  •  All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment. 
  • All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the centre front.

This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the centre front look on a ready garment.

Image Source: Pattern Making For Fashion Design By – Helen Joseph-Armstrong

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MAGIC OF DARTS

Written by- Nikita Rajani

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]

This is the fourth part of the dart manipulation series in which you will learn how the bust dart and waist dart are transferred into the French dart.


In case you have missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, click on the link below-

Hi everyone, this blog is about dart manipulation into French dart. Before moving forward let’s discuss the importance of dart manipulation.

Dart manipulation is an extremely valuable skill. Darts manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting. The shape and fit of garments depends on darts and while they are needed to help the garment to stay in shape, they can also be used as a design element.

Now, talking about French dart, it is the diagonal dart that combines bust dart and front waist dart. Basically, French dart is the dart that reaches from the side seam at the waist of a bodice block towards the bust point.

Steps to manipulate the bust dart to french dart:

1.Trace round front bodice block.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

2.Draw a line from the side seam at the waist to the bust point.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

3.Fold the bust dart and the waist dart, then close them with the help of glue.

4.From A to B slash along this line.

Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich
Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

5.Stick a paper underneath the bodice block.

6.Fold the slashed dart towards the centre front.

7.True the waist line with a french curve.

Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich


In this way, the dart is manipulated to make the French dart

Image Source: Pattern Making for Fashion Design By-Helen Joseph Armstrong

This is how French dart will look after sewing on the fabric.

I think French dart is so flattering than other standard side darts and add visual interest. Construction of French dart is slightly different than other darts as this dart adds drama and creates interest . It is an essential dart to shape and fit the garment to the body curves better.

I hope this blog was a helpful for dart manipulation in pattern making.

For more dart manipulation ideas do follow, comment and like.

THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written By- Namrata jaiswal

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]

This is the third part of the dart manipulation series in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Side Seam.

In case you missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, then click on the links below to have a read-

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear; they are manipulated into a different position.

SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.

Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

Follow the following steps :

1 . Trace the front bodice block.

Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

2. Mark point ‘A’ at the centre of the side seam and mark the apex point as ‘B’. Join A & B with a straight line.

Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue, and then slash from point ‘A’ to ‘B’.

Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

NOTE:

  •  All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment. 
  • All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the side seam.

This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the side seam look on a ready garment.

Image Source: Pattern Making For Fashion Design By – Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Hope this blog was a great learning experience.

So, for more such blogs follow us and stay connected.

THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written By- Annu Taneja

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]

Here is the second part of dart manipulation in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Armhole.

In case you have missed the first dart manipulation blog, in which the transferring of bust dart to centre shoulder is shown then click on the link below to have a read-

Dart manipulation is the most important technique when it comes to pattern- drafting. The fit and shape of the garment depends on the darts. Dart manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D shape.

Primarily, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you wish to have them. Darts don’t disappear; they are just manipulated into different positions.

Basically there are basic 7 locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless. You can move them to any location on the sloper.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

THE ARMHOLE DART

Follow the following steps for the manipulation of the bust dart into the armhole:

1 . Trace the front bodice block.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

2. Go 1 cm down from the front pitch point and mark point “A “, then draw the line from point “A” to apex point of the bust dart.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue. Then slash from point “A” to the end of the bust dart.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

PLEASE NOTE:

  •  All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment. 
  • All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the Armhole.

This is how the manipulation of the bust dart into the armhole will look on a ready garment.

Image Source: Pattern Making for Fashion Design By- Helen Joseph- Armstrong

Hope this blog was a good learning experience.

So for more such blogs follow, like, share and comment….!!!

THE MAGIC OF DARTS

By-Namrata Jaiswal

[Guided By- Ms Leela Taparia & Ms Monika Malik]

Hello everyone, I hope you all are doing well!!

I am a Fashion Design student and love Pattern-Making as a subject.

In this blog, I will be sharing the Basics of dart manipulation, as it is an important part in every design practically.

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to Pattern- Drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Dart manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3-D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear, they are manipulated into a different position. So, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart but the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the slopers.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

THE CENTER SHOULDER DART

So, we will begin with THE CENTER SHOULDER DART

Follow the steps mentioned below:

  1. Trace round front bodice block.
Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

2. Draw line from center shoulder to the apex point of the bust dart.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich

3. Then fold the bust dart with the help of glue, and slash from mid shoulder to the end of the bust dart.

Image Source:Metric Pattern Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich
  • NOTE:
    •  All vertical darts fold towards the center front or center back of the garment. 
    • All horizontal darts fold towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart is manipulated into center shoulder dart. This is how a manipulated center shoulder dart will look on a ready garment.

Image Source:Pattern Making For Fashion Design By – Helen Joseph-Armstrong

I hope you were able to learn the example of dart manipulation and implement center shoulder dart on your garments. In the next blog, I will be sharing how the bust dart can be transferred into the armhole.

For more such blogs follow us and stay connected.

Please Comment, Share & Like.