THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written By- Annu Taneja

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]

This is the fifth part of the dart manipulation series in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Neck.

In case you missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, then click on the links below to have a read:

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear; they are manipulated into a different position.

SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is image-17.png
Image source: Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear by – Winifred Aldrich

To transfer bust dart into the nck, follow the steps mentioned below:-

1.Trace the front bodice block.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is image-19.png
Image source: Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear by – Winifred Aldrich

2.Mark the point ‘A’ anywhere on the Neck line and mark point apex point as point ‘B’. Join A-B with a straight line.

Image source: Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear by – Winifred Aldrich

3.Fold the bust dart and secure it with the help of glue. Then slash from point A to point B.

Image source: Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear by – Winifred Aldrich

NOTE:

  •  All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment. 
  • All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the neck.

This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the neck looks like on a ready garment.

Image source: Pattern Making For Fashion Design By – Helen Joseph-Armstrong

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