THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written By- Namrata Jaiswal

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Monika Malik]

This is the sixth part of the dart manipulation series in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Centre Front.

In case you missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, then click on the links below to have a read:

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear; they are manipulated into a different position.

SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is image-17.png — *Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich*

Follow the following steps :

1 . Trace the front bodice block.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is image-19.png — *Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich*

2. Go down 2.5 cm from the Armhole Depth Line (ADL) on the centre front line and mark it point ‘A’. Mark the apex point as point ‘B’. Join point A-B with a straight line.

*Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich*

3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue, and then slash from point ‘A’ to ‘B’.

NOTE:

All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment.
All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the centre front.

This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the centre front look on a ready garment.