MAGIC OF DARTS

Written by- Nikita Rajani

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]

This is the fourth part of the dart manipulation series in which you will learn how the bust dart and waist dart are transferred into the French dart.


In case you have missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, click on the link below-

Hi everyone, this blog is about dart manipulation into French dart. Before moving forward let’s discuss the importance of dart manipulation.

Dart manipulation is an extremely valuable skill. Darts manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting. The shape and fit of garments depends on darts and while they are needed to help the garment to stay in shape, they can also be used as a design element.

Now, talking about French dart, it is the diagonal dart that combines bust dart and front waist dart. Basically, French dart is the dart that reaches from the side seam at the waist of a bodice block towards the bust point.

Steps to manipulate the bust dart to french dart:

1.Trace round front bodice block.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

2.Draw a line from the side seam at the waist to the bust point.


Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

3.Fold the bust dart and the waist dart, then close them with the help of glue.

4.From A to B slash along this line.

Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich
Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich

5.Stick a paper underneath the bodice block.

6.Fold the slashed dart towards the centre front.

7.True the waist line with a french curve.

Image Source: Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear By-Winifred Aldrich


In this way, the dart is manipulated to make the French dart

Image Source: Pattern Making for Fashion Design By-Helen Joseph Armstrong

This is how French dart will look after sewing on the fabric.

I think French dart is so flattering than other standard side darts and add visual interest. Construction of French dart is slightly different than other darts as this dart adds drama and creates interest . It is an essential dart to shape and fit the garment to the body curves better.

I hope this blog was a helpful for dart manipulation in pattern making.

For more dart manipulation ideas do follow, comment and like.

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