THE MAGIC OF DARTS

Written By- Namrata jaiswal

[Guided by- Ms. Leela Taparia & Ms. Monika Malik]

This is the third part of the dart manipulation series in which we will learn how the bust dart is transferred into the Side Seam.

In case you missed the previous dart manipulation blogs, then click on the links below to have a read-

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern- drafting. The shape and fit of the garment depends on the darts. Darts manipulation converts a flat piece of fabric into a 3D garment.

Basically, dart manipulation means moving darts around the bodice block, where ever you want them. Darts don’t disappear; they are manipulated into a different position.

SO, basically there are 7 basic locations where you can transfer the dart. But, the possibilities are endless…you can move them to any location on the sloper.

*Image Source: Metric Cutting For Women’s Wear By – Winifred Aldrich*

Follow the following steps :

1 . Trace the front bodice block.

2. Mark point ‘A’ at the centre of the side seam and mark the apex point as ‘B’. Join A & B with a straight line.

3. Fold the bust dart and secure it with glue, and then slash from point ‘A’ to ‘B’.

NOTE:

All vertical darts are folded towards the centre front or centre back of the garment.
All the horizontal darts are folded towards the hem line of the garment.

4. Stick a paper underneath the slashed dart. And the bust dart has been manipulated into the side seam.

This is how the manipulation of bust dart into the side seam look on a ready garment.